RESUMPTION OF MT. KAILASH-MANSAROVAR LAKE YATRA THROUGH SIKKIM

Extremely good and pleasing news of resumption of Mount Kailash & Mansarovar lake Yatra from June 12, 2025 through Nathu La after a hiatus of five years, has to be welcomed with a sense of pride and pleasure. To comprehend the nuts & bolts and intricacies involved, it may be necessary to go down memory lane.

A RED LETTER DAY

It was a cool, soothing night on 5th July 2006 when we rushed to Nathu La in our Boleros and Gypsies for resumption of international border trade between India and China after a long gap of forty two years.Tourism was to get a certain boost with the proposed development. There was joy and enthusiasm all around.

Temperature began falling once we gained height. As expected, no vegetation was visible beyond 12,000 feet altitude. Lovely setting of Kyongnasla Red Panda halt or the mesmerizing beauty of Rhododendron flowers at Tsomgo lake failed to divert attention. For, all eyes were glued on Nathu La pass, overlooking Chumbi valley of Tibet from a commanding height.

We made it to Nathu La, the famous abode of clouds, located at an altitude of 14,169 feet, much ahead of scheduled time of 8 a.m.on 6th July. The area had the highest ATM, Post office and Conference hall in the world.Tall Army and ITBP personnel in their impressive turnouts clearly dominated their Chinese counterparts in terms of height and appearance. They saw to it that we were served hot piping tea after display of their smiling gesture.

KHADAS & SMILES

Our long, wide and attractive, off white coloured Khadas (scarves) were kept nicely arranged to welcome the Chairman of Tibetan Autonomous Region (TAR) and his officers while as a matter of reciprocity, tall Chinese or Tibetan beaming girls were ready with their striking pink coloured flowery knot Khadas to welcome Pawan Chamling, the then Chief Minister of Sikkim. The dignitaries arrived shortly before 8 a.m. It was a different Nathu La today. Bright and sunny with azure blue sky all around. Our Jawans, for a change were not tense but looked calm & relaxed. Chinese too appeared cool & calmposed.

BONHOMIE AT THE TOP

While the cheering and welcoming girls were in the forefront, greater bonhomie was seen among the officials and the traders of India and China, who were braving minus 4 degree temperature to line up the border crossing in advance for this historic day. Septugenerian Moti Lal Lakhotia, owner of Denzong cinema & Tashi Delek hotel, Gangtok was seen proudly displaying a pass book of a bank located in Chumbi valley. He claimed that he had opened an account as early as 1935. Behind him were round about 40 traders from Sikkim eager to proceed to Renquinggang trading Mart (20 kms from Nathu La) China, to resume trade links with Chinese traders.20 items of trade are permissible for Import while 36 are allowed for Export and that there is nothing called ‘negative list’.

Apart from Chairman, TAR and few of his officers, the Chinese Ambassador to India too graced the occasion. Since we had met earlier, developing good rapport with him appeared easy. Per kind his courtesy, I crossed over to about half a kilometre on the Chinese side to discover that boundaries were nothing but creation of mankind.

METICULOUS GROUND WORK

Hectic efforts were made on our request by the officers of Ministry of Commerce & Industry as also on behalf of State Government by this writer as Commissioner cum Secretary, Industry, Commerce, Tourism & Civil Aviation Departments. A high level team led by the Commerce Secretary ,Govt. of India also paid a visit to Beijing and returned to India via Lhasa and Nathu La.

Idea was not only to resume trade but to re link and re join the historical bond between the communities staying on two sides of the border which was virtually non-existent for years.

It was learnt at the very outset that Tibetan Chinese were more desperate to buy our daily use products. Instances of smuggling , therefore, have been reported in the past and such nefarious practices are likely to go on in new era as well.

Long distance from Lhasa and other urban centres had made their life rather cumbersome.Their Mart at Renquinggang was otherwise very spic and span as opposed to Indian one, set up hurriedly in a few Army barracks at Sherathang (Later a permanent building came up). Proposal of our State to have it near Tsomgu lake was turned down by the Ministry of Commerce as the area has a huge ammunition dumb.

PROPOSAL FOR PILGRIMAGE THROUGH SIKKIM

When additional proposal of the Chief Minister, Sikkim to use Nathu La route for pilgrimage to Mt.Kailash & Mansarovar was put forward, it did not evoke expected interest among the Chinese.True to their nature, they maintained silence. They are famous for being tight lipped on such issues and have the wherewithal to prolong something for years.

A WAIT OF NINE YEARS

From July 6, 2006 to June 14 , 2015 (when Nathu La route was allowed for pilgrimage to Mansarovar ultimately), it was a long gap of nine years but I suppose, dealing with the Chinese those days was not everyone’s cup of tea. There was also a stark difference between avid interest evinced by optimistic and candid Sri Ashok Kantha, Secretary, Commerce, Government of India vis a vis his successor, Sri R.Khuller, who used to treat the matter of trade & tourism in a very routined manner (Sad).

ADVANTAGE SIKKIM

Pilgrimage through Sikkim, though a long and somewhat boring one, was seen as a comfortable and less tedious one vis a vis land routes through Ship Ki La in H.P. and Lipu Lekh in Uttarakhand. Nepal route, mostly by air, was also used by many Indians.

NEW ROUTE THROUGH NATHU LA

As regards new route through Nathu La, people, were more than willing to pay Rs 2,50,000/ per head as upto 2019.

The entire journey takes 21 to 22 days. First batch of pilgrims were to report at Delhi on June 11.They were to undergo comprehensive medical check ups and briefings, prior to proceeding to Bagdogra by air. Then the responsibility of State Tourism Department begins. Yatra would be undertaken by ten batches of 48 yatris each, duly accompanied by Liaisons Officers, cooks and supporting staff.

ADVENTURE cum PILGRIMAGE

Upon fitness drills,Yoga and briefing at Gangtok and two days of acclimatization at 16th Mile and Hangu Lake centres, they will leave Nathu La for Kangma (14,220 feet) on the 6th day. The second day of journey from Kangma to Lazi, altogether covering 295 kms, will be completed in 7 to 8 hours. Pilgrims will reach an altitude of 4953 metres which is fairly high. But much longer (477 kms) journey from Lazi to Zhongpa( 4728 metres) would take 11 to 12 hours. This will be a real litmus test.

Again after a night of rest, the 475 kms stretch between Zhongpa to Darchen (4670 metres) would take 11 to 12 hours. From Darchen, one has to go to Yamdwar & thereafter to Diraphuk.

The PARIKRAMA of Mt.Kailash- 40 kms, begins from here.

22 kms journey from Diraphuk to Jhunjhui (4780 metres) will be a tough one just like Jhunjhui to Darchen, likely to take 6 to 7 hours.

LONG CHERISHED DIP IN MANSAROVAR

After the 88 kms, keenly awaited journey from Darchen to Qugu (4600 metres), one gets a rare chance to take a dip in Mansarovar lake, the highest fresh water lake in the world.

It is a spiritual hub of the world, with temperature ranging between 11 degree and 4 degree. One gets stunning views of Himalyas from here. People between the ages 18 to 72 years with regular fitness levels are encouraged to make it.

The Circumambulation (walking around) of Mt. Kailash, having a length of 53 kms is allowed but not climbing. Considered a sacred pilgrimage, it has to be completed in 3 days.

One should remember this gospel truth. This part of Yatra is very physically demanding and challenging. Not all pilgrims, therefore, opt for it.

RETREAT TO INDIA

The retreat of 1500 kms to India will commence on the 14th day. On 17th day, if everything goes well, one would make it back to Nathula.Though one tends to get tired and exhausted by this time, its worth taking a risk. Both body and mind are bound to be refreshed.

TO CONCLUDE,

This rare, awaited and important Yatra to the most holy abode of Lord Shiva is once in a life time experience. Even if one can not afford it, one should utilise savings and pad up pocket by contributions from near and dear ones. It is worth it by any means.

Such an adventure right through very high altitudes is possible as a result of flawless planning and monitoring by officers and securitymen of two countries for days together.

Sikkim is gearing up to welcome tourists and pilgrims with warm hospitality and adequate exposure to art, culture and traditions of the state. Number of tourists to the state will definitely multiply with this fresh development having positive overtones.

HAR HAR MAHADEV.

(The author is former Chief Secretary, Sikkim)